LONDON — Gareth Pugh marked a decade of his eponymous label in spectacular fashion Saturday night at the Victoria and Albert Museum, fittingly the home of the world’s largest holding of decorative arts and design. The runway show also came as a bit of a homecoming for the English fashion designer who has shown in Paris for the better part of seven years. Pugh did not take the occasion lightly either, sending out warrior women whose faces makeup artist Alex Box painted with the Cross of St. George. Those perpendicular slashes of red will conjure different feelings depending on what morning newspaper locals read on the Tube, but for Pugh it was not so deadly serious, after all supporter chants of Sunderland A.F.C. could be heard in the stirring runway soundtrack. The all-black collection gave an imposing series of silhouettes and yet the makings of which were in many cases comprised of drinking straws meticulously arranged into coats of armor. All of this was beguiling and made all the more so by a quintet of models at Next including Maja Salamon, Kate B, Hedvig Palm, Roxy, and Lucy G featured looks on the runway. London Fashion Week has officially begun!

Credits include: Client, Gareth Pugh; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Fall / Winter 2015; Clothing design, Gareth Pugh; Styling, Katie Shillingford at Intrepid; Hair, Anthony Turner at Art Partner; Makeup, Anthony Turner and the M∙A∙C Pro Team; Manicure, Marian Newman for M∙A∙C; Production, Inca; Casting, Shaun Beyen.