LONDON — A week ago film director Jonathan Demme’s Academy Award-winning 1991 adaptation of the Thomas Harris novel The Silence of the Lambs celebrated its 25th anniversary. The face mask that Anthony Hopkins memorably wore in his role as sociopath Hannibal Lecter more than a quarter century ago was dusted off Saturday night and given new life in the Autumn / Winter 2016 collection by Gareth Pugh. The English designer is not averse to dramatic spectacle, but on this occasion at Freemasons’ Hall, the literal restraint shown only served to heighten tension implicit in power suits throughout the collection. The first three of five models from across the Next network that included Brigitta, Elizabeth Moore, Klementyna Dmowska, Odette Pavlova, and Wangy were painstakingly outfitted with the “Hannibal” masks, which seemed to imply that women in strong suits pose a threat to life and limb. Whatever the case might be, Pugh’s were strong women that would given any Hannibal Lecter-come-lately pause.

Credits include: Client, Gareth Pugh; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Autumn / Winter 2016; Clothing design, Gareth Pugh; Styling, Katie Shillingford at Intrepid; Hair, Malcolm Edwards at Art Partner; Makeup, Val Garland and the M∙A∙C Pro Team; Music production, Matthew Stone; Production, INCA; Casting, Shaun Beyen; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.