LONDON — Alexander McQueen was not the only house to mark its return to the British captial Sunday (more on that to come). Mulberry it so happens gave creative director Johnny Coca his debut following a more than two year hiatus for the UK brand. “Modernity always needs roots in the past,” Coca is quoted in the collection notes as saying. To that end,  Coca referenced Shakespeare’s ability to faithfully render all strata of society in all their glorious contradictions. A tension between utilitarianism and femininity could be seen throughout the collection, studs here, delicate pleats there, but all in the service of Coca’s singular vision. Odette Pavlova took the honors of opening the runway show at Guildhall. Also the runway that afternoon were another seven models at Next including Lineisy Montero, Liza Ostanina, Alanna Arrington, Lina Hoss, Mila Ganame, Lili Sumner, and Ola Rudnicka.

Credits include: Client, Mulberry; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Autumn / Winter 2016; Clothing design, Johnny Coca; Styling, Katy England; Hair, Malcolm Edwards; Makeup, Miranda Joyce; Manicure, Adam Slee; Music composition, Sacha Sieff; Production, Villa Eugénie; Casting, Patrizia Pilotti; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.