LONDON — Christopher Kane used the notion of lost and found as a point of departure when designing his collection for Autumn / Winter 2016, which he debuted Monday afternoon at the Tate Modern. The elasticity of the theme meant Kane could pack a lot into the collection so long as it was sufficiently outsider. “I have always been obsessed with recluses and the image of the outsider making their own world by hoarding things away,” said Kane in the collection notes. “We wanted to emulate that for this collection; to take unlikely things and make them beautiful.” When beset with the task of making the unlikely beautiful it certainly does not hurt to marshal the arsenal of skills the gifted English designer brings to his work, nor for that matter a cast of unique and striking models. Walking on a runway set underneath an elaborate wedge-shaped sculpture made of scaffolding of a dizzying height were amongst others 10 models from across the Next network including Ugne Andrijauskaite, Jay Wright, Thais Custodio, Julie Hoomans, Julia Fleming, Klementyna Dmowska, Elizabeth Moore, Odette Pavlova, Lea Issarni, and Vera Van Erp. Many of the models in the lineup wore plastic rain caps by milliner Stephen Jones, which served to accentuate the outsider air about hair styled by Guido to mimic that of a woman caught in a downpour. The collection resembled a real assemblage of disparate items and techniques, much in the way an assortment of bits and bobs in the lost and found does. In the hands of Christopher Kane, though it was poetry.

Credits include: Client, Christopher Kane, Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Autumn / Winter 2016; Clothing design, Christopher Kane; Styling, Jacob K assisted by Clemence Lobert & Flora Hunt; Hair, Guido Palau for Redken; Hats, Stephen Jones; Makeup, Lucia Pieroni at Streeters for NARS Cosmetics; Manicure, Sophy Robson at Streeters; Music direction, Simon Halsberghe for Moiré Productions; Show production, Gainsbury and Whiting; Casting, Adam Hindle assisted by Sivan Currie; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.