PARIS — “You need to keep away from the walls. Don’t forget this is a building site.” Models hear all types of shouted instructions throughout the season from when to dress to how forceful to walk, but this reminder was certainly a first for many of these girls, none of whom were wearing hard hats as so often is required on such sites. As visual metaphors go, an active construction site, replete with excavated earth, crumbling concrete walls, and a tower crane holding over it all a massive YSL logo (it’s back!) in lights, the occasion could hardly be misread. Anthony Vaccarello took creative reins at Saint Laurent in early April and 178 days later showed his first collection at the house for Spring / Summer 2017 and, in his words speaking to Vogue, said, “It’s a work in progress.” Provisional as it sounds, there is no doubt Vaccarello will continue building and any more than there is that Tuesday night’s runway site will one day be the future Saint Laurent headquarters. On the evening, eight models from across the Next network including four exclusives (denoted with a parenthetical E) walked including Hiandra (E), Agnes Åkerlund (E), Binx, Vera Van Erp, Anja Rubik (E), Karmen Pedaru (E), Melissa Stasiuk, and Selena Forrest. All told, there could have been no finer way to begin Fashion Week in the French capital than laying a strong foundation at the house built by Yves Saint Laurent.

Credits include: Client, Saint Laurent; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Spring / Summer 2017; Clothing design, Anthony Vaccarello; Styling, Alastair McKimm; Hair, Anthony Turner, Makeup, Tom Pecheux; Show direction and production, Alexandre de Betak at Bureau Betak; Casting, Piergiorgio Del Moro, Samuel Ellis; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.