PARIS — Throughout his career Anthony Vaccarello has shown a sense of occasion and invariably seized it. This was true on Tuesdays of yore for his signature label runway shows when he would tear the roof of Paris Fashion Week on its opening evening with a firm, unequivocal commitment to fashion after dark. Since assuming the creative helm at Saint Laurent, this commitment has not wavered, but in fact intensified with a voracity that is commensurate with the global footprint of a house founded more than a half century ago by Yves Saint Laurent. Under drizzly skies Tuesday night, Vaccarello returned to the active building site and future headquarters of Yves Saint Laurent at Rue de Bellechasse to present his collection for Fall 2017. The grittiness of the open air runway that squared the bleacher seating at its center accentuated the elegance and unapologetic sexiness of this collection that went big on black leather, velvet, glittering rhinestones, and shearling, yes, shearling. On the night campaign beauty Hiandra Martinez opened the runway show and was joined by a further seven models at Next including Selena Forrest, Abril Shaw, Binx, Nandy Nicodeme, Moira Berntz, Agnes Åkerlund, and Melissa Stasiuk. Of these models, Hiandra, Abril, and Agnes were all exclusives. Suffice to say, Paris Fashion Week has started and once again Anthony Vaccarello could not have given it a better opening night.

Credits include: Client, Saint Laurent; Collection, YSL 07 Fall 2017; Creative design, Anthony Vaccarello; Styling, Alastair McKimm; Hair, Anthony Turner; Casting, Piergiorgio Del Moro, Samuel Ellis; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.