NEW YORK — Matthew Adams Dolan is relatively new, recent graduate of the MFA Fashion Design and Society Program at Parsons School for Design that he is, but he has already made significant inroads, not least with a certain bad girl otherwise known as Rihanna. Celebrity certainly does not hurt when it comes to launching a label, but the longevity of it is down to the designer. Since making his debut two years ago, Dolan has evolved his presentation into the runway format, which he harnessed to dramatic effect early Friday evening in Chelsea. The collection for spring was said to be a meditation on America, what it meant in the past and what it will mean in the future. Dolan embraced dissonance at the heart of the American project, paradise and psychosis. Picture preppy stylings, pinstripes, tailored shirts, cable knit sweaters, and the like, but at unorthodox proportions and scales. On the evening a complete Next starting XI featured on the runway from across the global network including Erin Mommsen, Eli Epperson, Lili Sumner, Moira Berntz, Nandy Nicodème, Lia Pavlova, Estella Brons, Wangy, Haronid Vaszquez, Maria Clara, and Liam Daniels. The show itself felt raw, almost as if anything could happen at any given moment, and Friday night it pretty much did. The future of this American designer looks promising indeed.

Credits include: Client, Matthew Adams Dolan; Collection, Ready-To-Wear Spring / Summer 2018; Creative design, Matthew Adams Dolan; Styling, Carlos Nazario; Hair, Cyndia Harvey; Makeup, Kanako Takase; Manicure, Dawn Sterling; Production, Replicia; Public relations, Karla Otto; Casting, Walter Pearce; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.