LONDON — Although it would hardly be fair or for that matter representative (sample size, ahem?!) to hang a fashion week’s reputation on any one designer, not adequately singing the praises of a collection listed on a less fancied calendar is also just as inequitable. That previous sentence was a needless mouthful, more to the point would be to say Louise Trotter’s latest collection for Joseph is worth however many nights spent in the British capital in between New York and Milan. London Fashion Week does not need this or any other page’s defense, it is more than capable all by its lonesome, but the Joseph Spring / Summer 2018 runway show early Monday evening at Victoria House once again served up a timely reminder of the talent this city has on its books. Trotter as ever was unflinching in her willingness to deconstruct recognizable forms, dispense with formalism and routine, and embrace altogether new methods. The resultant collection for spring was a breath of fresh air in the way holidaying on distant shores can be. Fabrics were crinkled, scale was toppled, and menswear was once again marshaled into entirely different ends. Models were even instructed to walk the runway at an angle and at a considerable clip. If a shoe fails, they were asked not to break stride, but rather remove the offending footwear, and simply get on with blazing the runway. London Fashion Week has done much the same with its own program that is straight savage. On the evening, four models from across the Next global network including Tessa Bruinsma, Estella Brons, Hiandra Martinez, and Myrthe Bolt featured in the show.

Credits include: Client, Joseph; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Spring / Summer 2018; Creative design, Louise Trotter; Styling, Jane How at Art Partner; Hair, Duffy at Streeters; Makeup, Lynsey Alexander at Streeters with Estée Lauder; Manicure, Ama Quashie at CLM; Music, Pascal Moscheni; Production, OBO London; Casting, Leila Ananna at Trouble Management; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.