PARIS — Late Thursday night in the 17th arrondissement, Virgil Abloh unveiled his women’s Off-White™ collection for Spring / Summer 2018 in a runway show he titled “Natural Woman.” The natural woman in this case is reportedly Princess Diana, whose death as of last month is now 20 years in the past. Abloh and his design team in Milan apparently studied all aspects of the late Princess of Wales, which was in turn used as the point of departure for the latest collection. This immediately translated into lots of permed wigs worn by nearly all the models in the lineup, save the show opener Hiandra Martinez, who wore her customary cornrows. Joining Hiandra on the runway from across the Next global network were Danielle Lashley, Katlin Aas, Aiden Curtiss, Moira Berntz, Marjan Jonkman, and Shujing Zhou. Off-White™ hypebeasts could likely be disappointed there was little in the way of streetwear, but the last few seasons surely will have disabused them of such expectations. Abloh’s Off-White™ is maturing, if not evolving.

Credits include: Client, Off-White™; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Spring / Summer 2018; Clothing design, Virgil Abloh; Styling, Stevie Dance; Hair, James Pecis; Makeup, Fara Homidi; Casting, Liz Goldson at AM Casting; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.