NEW YORK — Drugs. Every generation has its preferences for chemical escapes and altered states. These days it is morphine and oxycodone, the widespread abuse of which has reached epidemic proportions in the United States. The dissolution of manufacturing in the American economy over the last 40 years coupled with a predatory pharmaceutical industry has made this crisis something of an inevitability and at the same time uniquely 2018. It was drugs of another time, however that loomed large Wednesday night for Raf Simons when he debuted his menswear collection for Fall / Winter 2018. The destination was none other than Berlin of the 1970s and its attendant drug scene crystallized in Christiane F’s autobiographical tale Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo. Made into a movie by the same name in 1981, this harrowing portrait of teenage heroin use is considered a European classic amongst the generation growing up in the late stages of the Cold War. Graphic elements from the film as well as the Cookie Mueller and Glenn O’Brien tragicomic play Drugs figured throughout the collection. Sharp tailoring, turtlenecks, and trench coats as well ought to have Simons fanatics fiending for this autumn long after decomposition grips what remains from the piles of grapes, pomegranates, loaves of bread, mountains of chocolate, and liters of wine artfully arranged throughout the raised runway. On the night Callum Stoddart, Piero Méndez, and Joshua Bering featured in a lineup comprised of no more than 14 models.

Credits include: Client, Raf Simons; Collection, Menswear Fall / Winter 2018; Creative design and styling, Raf Simons; Hair, Guido Palau; Makeup, Terry Barber; Show direction and production, Alexandre de Betak at Bureau Betak; Music, Michel Gaubert; Casting, Ashley Brokaw; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.