NEW YORK — For two seasons running Marc Jacobs opted for austerity when it came to its staging. Set designer and longtime collaborator Stefan Beckman over the years has created some memorable sets the Jacbos’s signature label from the pink house to that fiery Diane Vreeland motif. The last couple seasons, however were notable for their near refusal dress up the cavernous Park Avenue Armory with anything more than steel folding chairs. Wednesday night was different, however, and far more dramatic. The armory itself was shrouded in darkness except for the illumined runway running down its center. Swelling organ and choral music gave proceedings a ceremonial air, which set the stage for a collection that was equal in every regard. The collection called to mind haute couture from the 1980s, albeit with strategic exaggeration in scale and proportion. Variations on broad shouldered cashmere coats, pinched at the waste with oversize belts, and finished with sharply cut hats by millinery master Stephen Jones typified this collection for fall. There was little pretension about the collection and no esoteric cultural knowledge was required to appreciate what was so plainly evident. These are clothes for powerful women, none of whom became strong just eating popcorn. On the night, four models from across the Next global network featured in the show including Hiandra Martinez, Estella Brons, Massima, and Aiden Curtiss. Next stop: London!

Credits include: Client, Marc Jacobs; Collection, Women’s Ready-To-Wear Fall / Winter 2018; Creative design, Marc Jacobs; Hair, Guido Palau; Makeup, Diane Kendal using Marc Jacobs Beauty; Manicure, Jin Soon Choi; Millinery, Stephen Jones; Staging, Stefan Beckman; Music direction, Steve Mackey; Casting, Anita Bitton at The Establishment; Video, Damien Neva at Next Management.